Archive for the ‘Saiting Ego Scoota’ Category

A noisey front-end.


A couple of weeks ago I started to notice that after using my front break the throttle was slow to respond. I thought it was down to an electrical fault, maybe the cut-off switch on the front break was playing up. I took it off & had a look, couldn’t find any problems so I gave it a spray of good old WD40 & refitted it. Took the break lever off, cleaned it up, lubricated it & refitted it. None of this made any difference, so I kind of resided with the idea that maybe something was failing within my speed controller.
Now a couple of days ago I started to get an intermittent ‘rubbing’ sound from the front end. The sound got more frequent the higher the speed but was not present at lower speeds. Decided that it was time to strip down the front end.

I started to take the front wheel out & found the spindle bolt was so excessively tight that I needed to stand on the wrench to undo the nut. These nuts should never be that tight! Got the spindle out & found that it had never been greased. Took the break calliper off, these came off quite easily. Noticed that one break pad had worn more than the other, so I took a better look at the calliper. The two pistons had a bit of surface corrosion on them so I cleaned them up with a bit of WD40 & a soft cloth, then gave them a good spray of Wd & pushed them back in & pumped them out etc a couple of times to draw in the fluid. Re-lubricated the sliders & pins & then put it all back together. Also noticed a load of very light scratches on the disc, so I guess that the pads must have picked up some grit & was rubbing on the disc.

I thought that before I put the wheel back, I’d take out the crappy screws holding the front mudguard & replace them with some new bolts. !!!!!!!! There’s a lot to be said about greasing bolts before fitting them! On of them sheared (torqued) off! Had to drill-out the bolt & re-tap the hole.
I urge you all to change these bolts or at least take them all (every bolt & screw you can see) out & put some ‘never-seize’ grease on the threads. This will hopefully save you from having this problem in time of urgent repairs….

Anyway, put it all back together (with fresh grease everywhere) & took it out for a ride….. No more noise & the problem with the throttle response had gone 🙂
The corrosion on the calliper pistons was causing the breaks to stick slightly which was causing the lever to not return correctly & thus causing the poor throttle response due to the cut-out switch staying off until the lever fully returned.
The rubbing noise was caused by debris caught in the pads.

Bare in mind my Scoota has only done 4300 miles, I would suggest that the front end would need servicing at about 3000 miles.

Hope this helps 🙂


Battery life.


Just a quick update on things.
My Scoota is just coming up for 4000 miles (speedo reading) & I am really impressed with the condition of the batteries.
I am still charging them every day when I get in from work & they normally require a 4 to 5 hour charge. Just recently I have been using the lights for both the journey to & from work, so the re-charge is about 5 to 5.5 hours.
I’ve had absolutely now problems with them yet & they have been in service since September 2008 🙂
I feel that they should be good for at least another 6 months & that will be about another 1200 miles.
This, I feel, is worthy of praise to Saiting for producing a good balance of overall performance.
Thinking about the performance I am getting from my lead-acid batteries, I feel I can’t really justify opting for Lithium batteries next time. The price of Lithium batteries is still far too high compared with lead-acid replacements.

Insurance sorted.


Well, as promised here is news regarding my insurance.

I tried 4 companies & out of those only 2 were able to quote for electric scooters. Carol Nash & Bennetts still don’t do electric insurance.

I got my renewal quote from my current provider ‘West Humberstone Agencies Ltd’ (AKA, electric scooter insurance) for £143. I thought that was reasonable, but as I have mentioned before, I wanted to declare the scooter modified.
I got in contact with Adrian Flux & explained what I had done to my scooter. The guy I spoke to was really helpful & seemed very knowledgeable. He said that having the modifications was no problem & there are a few underwriters out there that would be able to help, Aviva being one of them. He quoted me £157, which I thought was also pretty good.
I phoned WHA back & I asked them if they could quote for my modified scooter & they said they could. I was quoted the same price (£143). After requesting that they remove the £12 legal cover I got it for £131. They have now supplied me with a letter stating that they know the scooter is modified & are happy with it being at 72 volts.
My situation is: Aged 35. Full bike licence. 1 years No claims.

Sorted. Paid up & legal. 🙂

It’s insurance time again!


Hi, it’s been a while since my last post as I have not really had anything to add, but now it is the dreaded insurance time….
I have found 3 potential companies & will be checking on quotes over the next week or so.
Will post info as & when I have it. Fingers crossed for a sensible quote 🙂

At long last we have a 72 volt charger!


Great news for everyone that wants to convert to 72 volts. E-Crazyman has made a 72 volt charger for us. I have ordered mine today, so I should be getting it a bout 10 days.

This should just about complete the list of parts required for a smooth transition to 72 volts.

Sorry to everyone that has been waiting patiently for the details to do the mod. I have not had time to make much head-way due to family comitments. The good news is that Mike has informed me that he is pretty darn close to completing his instructions.

Here is the link for the new charger. I suggest you order one now so it’s ready to use when you do the conversion:

Not designed for speed……


Note to one’s self:

Don’t try & take left-hand corners flat out!

I discovered today, to my dismay, that our Scoota’s don’t like being lent too far on the left. The center stand hits the deck with quite a bang!

I guess that it is only a speed thing, as it had never happened before I got the thing over 30mph. Obviously you tend to take corners a bit faster when you have chance.

Twice today I’ve taken corners above 30mph & the stand has ground across the tarmac, sending me slightly off course.

Higher speeds mean more lean in corners – be careful 🙂

A week’s trial & it’s looking good.


Well, I’ve been using it for a week now & it all seems pretty good. I have been checking the cable & motor temp’s after riding & they are comparable to the pre-mod temp’s, so I’m very happy with that.

As for speed & acceleration; It has been off the clock (but only just) on a long flat road, which equates to approx 52mph. That was the extremely over exaggerated ‘Ego’ speedo reading, so in reality my sat-nav reading was 34mph. I’m not entirely sure that the sat-nav reading is that accurate, as most of the roads I used to test on were quite short so it never really got chance to fully catch-up with the Scoota’s movements before it slows again. More tests to come soon. The initial acceleration does not seem much different from the 60 volt version, but it does climb through the speed range alot quicker once it gets going. I compare to the rate at which the 48 volt model does it’s 0 to 15 mph; it now accelerates like that all the way to 35 (ish) on the clock & then slowly gets up to full speed (normally 47mph). It also accelerates up hill a LOT better!

The re-generative breaking system works fine whilst on the stand but is over powering the controller during cruse, so Mike has re-designed & the changes (if all goes to plan) will be put into place over the weekend. Again, more info later.

Charging all the batteries posed a bit of a problem as we could not find a 72 volt charger, but I’ve got over this problem by charging 5 batteries with the 60 volt charger & 1 with my 12 volt charger. This involves disconnecting the 6th battery from the others whilst charging, but they all stay in situ with no need to remove, just disconnection. I bought an enclosure & fitted the 2 chargers in with a cooling fan. It’s nice & simple to use & keeps everything neat & out of the way. Mike had his own plan to charge the batteries, which involved combining the 2 chargers & connecting them in different places. Mike, please explain how………

All in all a damn good result. The Scoota finally feels like it should & how it should of felt like coming out of the factory. Lets face it, it only really cost about £200 extra to get it to this state & I’m sure (in fact I know) I would have paid the extra to have it like this from the start.

I fitted the re-gen switch just above the battery charge point, so when I want to use it I reach down & switch it on. If you let go of the throttle whilst doing this, the Scoota will slow down like you were lightly applying the rear break. If you continue to hold the throttle open, it will simply keep going. Both ways will be putting power back in the batteries.

72 volt conversion. Update 7.2


Well I’ve done it. My Scoota is now running at 72 volts (6 batteries). I have to say, it was a lot harder work then just going to 5 batteries. Now fitted with a new & re-programmed speed controller, up-rated isolator switch, 6 batteries, re-gen breaking & extra cabling. The speed controller needed a an extra resistor & a few wires soldered in (this, for me, was the real tricky bit), I actually got a migraine whilst doing this & had to leave it for a day 😦

I have not fitted the switch for the re-generative breaking yet, but the wire’s are there. I shall be doing this on Saturday (weather permitting). I’ll post with news….

As yet, I have not taken it for a ride. I’ve just tried it up & down my garden path. The acceleration seems better than the 60v version. I plan to take it all apart again tomorrow & check all my handy work (make sure I’ve tightened every thing up) & tidy-up all the new cable lay outs.

Again, none of this 72v malarkey would have been possible for me without all the information, help & advice from Mike. Mucho appreciation. I would not of known where to have started on re-programming a chip!

More news to come soon. Fingers crossed, it will all be working fine by the weekend 🙂


1k & going strong.


Today my Scoota reached the 1000 mile mark. So that’s probably about 715 real miles.
It’s still going strong & the batteries still seem to be holding up.
I think that it has also done about 500 miles of those with 60volts. No side effects yet.
Has anyone else’s clocked the 1st ‘K’ yet? I’d be intersted to know if there has been any problems yet.

To shunt or not to shunt?


Well…. I modified my replacement controller. When I took it apart I found that it had 2 shunt wires & pre-drilled holes for another. So I added the extra cable & got ready to install it, but when it came to fitting the controller I found that two of the connectors were different to my original controllers.
Also, I noticed that my original controller has a label that says: ‘Break : High Level’ & ‘Current Limit: 35A 1400W’.
But my replacement controller has a label that says: ‘Break : Low Level’ & ‘Current Limit: 34A 1400W’.
And the new controller is a bit bigger.
I thought I’d remove the back-plate from my original controller & find out where the wires all go. When I removed the back, the first thing I saw were the shunt wires. 3 of them!
MMM I thought. It seems that the controllers were actually designed to have 3 shunts in place as standard. What a waste of time that was…….
So I had a quick think & decided to remove the extra shunt I had previously installed.
I tried the the scoota with the ‘2 shunt’ controller & it worked fine, but I noticed that it was a bit slower on acceleration, but the top speed was about 3MPH higher.
I put my orginal back in & the acceleration increased again & the top speed was back to normal.

My conclusion from this is that if you need a scoota to handle hills, you should keep with the ‘3 shunt’ controller. If you would prefer top speed, you can remove a shunt to gain speed but lose power.

I am going to try out the contoller again & remove another shunt (so it only has 1) & see what the top speed is & how slow the acceleration is. I’ll let you know in due course….

If you want to remove a shunt, it can be done by simply removing the back plate from the controller & snipping the nearest wire. You don’t even need to remove the circuit board from the box.